As I was working my way down the leg of the second Happy-Go-Lucky Boot Sock, I got an email from Sharyn Sutherland from down under in Australia. Sharyn has found a fool-proof way to prevent holes from forming at the tops of the gussets and was kind enough to share her discovery with me. The timing couldn’t have been better–I was getting ready to start the heel flap on my Boot Sock. And you know what? Sharyn’s trick worked beautifully. Here’s what I did:
Step 1: A couple of rows before the start of the heel flap, place 3 stitches that correspond with the instep and 3 stitches that correspond with each side of the the heel flap on a coil-less safety pin (I use the little plastic pins from Clover). This keeps the stitches on each side of the heel divide from stretching out as the heel flap is worked.
Step 2: Work the heel flap, heel turn, and gussets as normal. You can probably remove the safety pin after a few rows of gusset decreases, but I left it in for good measure.
Step 3: Remove the safety pins and marvel at how there is no hole to be found. Because the heel flap is worked in a contrasting color for these socks, there was a small hole on the other side where I joined the new color. But once I woven in the end, it disappeared!
I happily went on to finish the second sock of the pair.
Notice how there is a much tidier look to the top of the gusset in the second sock (on the right) than on the first (on the left), where I didn’t use Sharyn’s trick.
Wow! So simple. I’m absolutely going to try that on my next sock. Thanks for passing the tip along. I always get the best tips from you 🙂
Sorry–I must be dense but I don’t get it. At what point do you put the stitches on the pin? (Obviously you continue to work the stitches.) Why would this work?
beautifull work!
This works because the gap is formed by the stitches stretching at the boundaries between those being worked for the heel flap and those being held for the instep.
Right before you start the heel flap, place the safety pins on the stitches 1 or 2 rows below the needles. By placing 3 stitches on each side of the gap (3 aligned with the future heel and 3 aligned with the future instep), you prevent the stitches from stretching apart as the heel flap is worked, and therefore prevent the gap from forming.
I am SO going to do this on my current socks when I get to the heel. Your photo shows it all. What a GREAT idea. Thank you for sharing this.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!!
This makes me want to cast on a pair of socks RIGHT NOW even though I have a gazillion UFOs. Brilliant!
I had skipped the boot socks, thinking I didn’t like them. But Ann’s version is so attractive that I’m now searching for my “right” colors in my stash, proving that one should always take a second look. Thanks Ann!
Okay, I’m a little confused…when do you work in the stitches from the holding pin?
You’ve already worked the stitches a row or two before they go on the safety pin.
After you finish the gussets, you take out the pins.
AWESOME tip! I’m currently knitting mittens & for some crazy reason, you knit the thumb before the fingers. I’m almost finished with the thumb but am considering frogging it to try this trick.
Ann, this is a great tip! I’m going to try this on my next pair of socks instead of using a crochet hook to close up that gap afterwards!
These socks remind me of pineapples! I think I need to cast them on, if only to try the trick out.
Brilliant tip, thanks! Now I just need to find the right type of safety pin to try it out…
Hi!
I’m knitting the happy go lucky boot socks, but I’m having trouble with the heel flap.. Mine doesn’t look like the pictures neither here nor in the Sock knitting master class book. It is the left cross pattern which is my problem. Does any pictures or videos exist of this particular knitting?
Gunhild SF
Hi Gundhild,
I apologize for not responding sooner — I only just now saw your question.
I don’t know of any videos, but there probably are some.
The trick to the left cross is to knit the second stitch on the left needle before the first in such a way that the first stitch passes over the front of the second stitch. The instructions in the book are for doing it without a cable needle, which may be what’s causing you trouble. Try slipping the first stitch onto a cable needle that you hold in the front of the work while you knit the next stitch, then knit the stitch on the cable needle.
I hope this helps!
Love this tip! Thanks for posting!
I love the tip and the fact it was shared with you and you are sharing it with us! I wonder how Sharyn got the idea in the first place…simple and effective….brilliant!