Correction

Mitered Triangles–Ta-Da and Corrections

I’m thoroughly delighted with my version of  Kathryn Alexander’s Mitered Triangles socks from New Directions in Sock Knitting. Adding 2 stitches to each of the triangles compensated for the thinner yarn I used and I’m happy to announce that they fit my feet!

 

 

As you might suspect, the fit is a bit odd with all the garter ridges and I’m not sure I’d want to wear them in a pair of shoes. On the other hand, why cover up all that fancy colorwork in shoes? I’m happy to wear them as slipper socks.

As I suspected, the second sock was much easier than the first. I had the “road map” in my head as I worked and didn’t have to puzzle out the errors in the instructions, which I’ve summarized below.

 

 

Corrections Mitered Triangles

Please accept my apologies for the following errors and the confusion they undoubtedly cause!

Page 67

First Sole Panel Garter ridge (left column):With Rosy pink, knit (not purl) 1 WS row, then place 10 sts at end of panel onto holder.

First Sole Panel Pick-up row (left column): (WS) With attached strand of Rosy Pink and WS of panel facing, pick up and purl (not knit) 8 sts along selvedge of Rosy Pink triangle, then 10 sts each along Melon, Pale Gold, and Mustard triangles–39 sts total.

Second Sole Panel Garter ridge (left column): With yellow Green purl (not knit) 1 RS row, then place 10 sts at end of panel onto holder.

First Heel Triangle (right column): With smaller needles, Yellow Gold, and leaving a 30″ (76 cm) tail, use the backward-loop (not the long-tail) method (see Glossary) to loosely CO 12 sts.

Page 67; Second Heel Triangle (right column): With smaller needles, Rusty Rose, and leaving a 30″ (76 cm) tail, use the backward-loop (not the long-tail) method to loosely CO 12 sts.

Page 68

Second Back Leg Panel Pick-up row (right column): (WS) With attached strand of Fuchsia and WS of panel facing, pick up and purl 9 sts along selvedge of Fuchsia triangle, then 10 sts each along Purple Rose and Dusty Violet panels, then purl (not knit) 1 Rusty Rose heel st from holder–30 sts total.

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Don’t forget to sign up for the raffle for a free copy of New Directions in Sock Knitting. Respond to this post by telling me why you’re ready to knit socks from a new direction, and I’ll enter you in the drawing to be held Sunday, June 25, 2017. I’ll announce the winner Monday morning (June 26).

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Harlequin Sock — A Correction

I was eager to start the second Harlequin sock from New Directions in Sock Knitting to check out the heel instructions. If you remember from my earlier post, I got mixed up at the heel and my right-side rows became wrong-side rows. Because I wasn’t paying close attention to the chart, I wasn’t sure if the problem was me or the instructions.

It turns out that there is an error on page 77. At the top of the left column, under “First Half,” Short-Row 1 is incorrect. It should read:

Short-Row 1: (RS) K11 (13) MC, k5 D, k11 (13) MC, k2A, k1B, k2A, sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), turn work.

The rest of the instructions are fine. The problem was that the original instructions failed to talk into account that the round begins at the heavy black line along the left side of the chart, not at the right edge as is normal. This detail was overlooked by several of us who make it our jobs to ensure that the instructions are all correct. Please forgive me. I’m glad that I was the first to find it.

I’m now past the heel and everything is working out well.

Harlequin second heel

Other notes:

  • I normally hold the stitches on 3 double-pointed needles, but I found it easier to work the wrong-side rows if I divided the stitches between 4 needles and knitted with a fifth.
  • I stopped in the middle of each colored diamond motif to weave in the ends. That got the extras out of the way and will make finishing a breeze when I’m done.
  • When working the heel, I tucked the butterflies of yarn attached to the instep stitches inside the sock. That kept them out of the way and made it easier to grab just the strands that were needed for the heel stitches.
  • I found it easiest to find my place if I put the work down when I was in the middle of a color block, not at the boundary between two colors. Otherwise, I got confused about whether I was on a right- or wrong-side row and where, exactly, I had paused.

The correction has been forwarded to Interweave to be posted on their website. I’m looking forward to smooth sailing up the leg, which I hope to do in between teaching classes at Interweave’s Yarn Fest this weekend!

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